Daily Stains: Try to wipe up stains as soon as possible. The longer the substance is on there the more likely it is to stain the surface. Use a mild cleaner with a pH between 7 and 10. See below.
Difficult Stains: Wipe up the stain, clean it with a mild cleaner. Identify the staining agent. Put one part bleach and one part water solution on it for 5‐7 hours. If that doesn’t work, mix up a poultice appropriate to the stain. See below.
Every Now and Then Maintenance: Two or three times a year apply a carnauba‐based wax product to the surface. Every 2 to 5 years re‐apply a sealer, but this varies depending on the sealer used. See page 4.
Things not to do: Most importantly: don’t leave spills on the surface, wipe them up, a.s.a.p. Try to keep the following off of the surface: abrasive cleaners, lemon/citrus, wine, permanent marker/ink, rust/paint removers, lacquer thinner, oven/metal/toilet/tile and drain cleaners and fingernail polish remover. Also watch out for hot pots and pans on the surface as their heat will compromise the integrity of the sealer. That’s all.
Daily Stains: Try to wipe up stains as soon as possible. The longer the substance is on there the more likely it is to stain the surface.
Use products that have a pH between 7 and 10 and water. We highly recommend Tile Lab’s Grout & Tile Cleaner or Tilelab’s OneStep Cleaner & Resealer. We recommend Dawn, Joy, Ivory Soap, 7th Generation’s All Purpose Cleaner and Simple Green’s Stone Cleaner. Tilelab products are sold at Home Depot. Avoid cleaning products or soaps containing water‐soluble, inorganic, or crystallizing salts, ammonia or acids.
Difficult Stains: The first thing to do is wipe it up and clean the surface with a mild cleaner. The second thing is to identify the staining agent. Knowing what caused the stain will help you prevent the stain from happening again and to determine what poultice to use.
Stage 1: Mix up half water and half non chlorine bleach (for example 7th Generation’s Non Chlorine Bleach) and apply it to the stained area. You can also use hydrogen peroxide. Let it sit for at most 7 hours. Dark coffee stains usually require 5 hours.
Stage 2: If that didn’t work you’re going to want to whip up a poultice and leave it on for 24‐72 hours, depending on the degree of the stain.
Stage 3: The poultice didn’t work the first time? Try again.
Stage 4: After you have removed as much of the stain as possible you are definitely going to need to re‐seal the surface. Since the surface is staining it’s time to re‐seal. Directions for re‐sealing your IceStone countertop surface are below, after poultice directions.
What is a poultice?
In reference to stone maintenance, a poultice is a moist mass that absorbs stains. Do not be intimidated by poultices, they are very useful and can be done by thoughtful homeowners. A poultice is generally made by mixing an absorbent material, like talcum powder, with a liquid. The liquid carries the absorbent material into the very tiny pores of the concrete and slowly dries over a period of 24‐72 hours in order to pull the stain out of the concrete and into the absorbent material. The most important aspect of the poultice is that the powder used is made up of small and absorbent particles to get into the concrete and pull out the stain as the poultice dries. It is also important that the poultice dries SLOWLY in order to absorb the stain.
Recommended products: Stone Care International’s or Aquamix’s Poultice Powders
Cleaning light colors of IceStone (for example: Sage Pearl, Alpine White, Ivory Cloud, etc)
Coffee stains: Baking Powder, baby powder, paper towels or SCI Poultice Powder with bleach for 24‐30 hours depending on the intensity of the stain.
Red wine stains: Baking Powder with bleach. Or you can use 2 parts baking soda with 1 part baby powder with bleach.
All other dark stains: Stone Care International or Aquamix’s Poultice Powders with bleach.
Cleaning dark colors of IceStone (Winter Sun, Moroccan Red, any of the colors that are not white or cream): For dark colors you want to be careful that you don’t poultice it too long because that might cause whitening to occur. The first time you apply the poultice leave it on for 24 hours.
Coffee stains: Talcum powder (or body powder), or paper towels with bleach. Talcum powder or water with hydrogen peroxide also works on stains.
Red wine stains: Talcum powder or baby powder with hydrogen peroxide.
All other dark stains: Stone Care International or Aquamix’s Poultice Powders with bleach.
Making a poultice:
To apply a poultice, follow these steps:
1. Clean the stain as best you can and leave it wet with water. Leaving it wet will help the poultice seep into the surface
2. Mix the poultice powder of your choice with a bleach and a little water until it is roughly the consistency of peanut‐butter (make sure it is not too thick!).
3. Apply the paste to the stained area (and only the stained area) in a layer at least a quarter inch thick. A good trick for keeping the poultice from running to areas that aren’t stained is to only wet the area that is stained. Applying the water with a cotton ball can be helpful for getting only the stain wet.
4. Cover the paste with plastic food wrap. Tape the plastic food wrap on all four sides using a low adhesive tape (like blue painters tape). Taping the edges will assure that the poultice does not dry to fast.
5. Allow the paste to sit for 24‐48 hours. Depending on the intensity of the stain. No longer than 24 hours if you are working on colored IceStone.
6. Remove the plastic cover and allow it to sit uncovered until thoroughly dry.
7. Once it is dry, brush the paste off with a dry cloth or paper towel.
8. Examine the treated area. If the stain is gone, thoroughly clean and dry the area and reseal it per the sealing instructions previously recommended. If the stain is still there, but is somewhat lighter, repeat the poultice application procedure above until it is gone. If the stain refuses to disappear completely, we recommend that you call a specialist or apply the poultice again.
9. Remember to seal the countertop after you have removed the stain.
Every Now and Then Maintenance: A few times a year wax your countertop with a carnauba wax product like Cheng’s Concrete Countertop Wax. When water no longer beads up on your IceStone countertop surface, but is instead readily absorbed into the surface within 5 minutes, it is time to re‐seal the surface and then re‐wax the surface. If your surface begins to stain, it is also time to re‐seal the surface.
Waxes:
Where to buy: Email sales@chengdesign.com or call 1‐510‐849‐3272 x.222
or go to http://www.concreteexchange.com/catalog/4
Waxes are particularly effective at preventing coffee stains. The wax barrier provides additional time to wipe up staining agents before they can do damage. You can test the finish by letting a droplet of water fall onto the surface. If it is absorbed, then you must reapply. Follow the product manufacturer’s recommendations.
Re‐sealing your IceStone countertop:
A reapplication technique depends on the sealer you want to use.
We recommend re‐sealing it with
Aquamix’s Penetrating Sealer available at Home Depot or one of the following:
Buddy Rhodes Penetrating and Topical Sealer
LS Guard by Prosoco (FLOORING ONLY – NOT FOOD GRADE) 5
1. Aqua Mix Penetrating Sealer
What: Water‐based penetrating sealer.
Where to buy: Lowes, Home Depot, hardware stores or http://www.aquamix.com/where_to_buy/ or call 1‐877‐278‐2311.
How to apply:
Manufacturers’ guidelines: http://www.aquamix.com/
1. Surface must be clean, dry and free of existing sealers or coatings.
2. The sealer should be applied in a room that is between 40 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit with good ventilation.
3. Apply using a sponge, brush, paint pad, or cotton towel. Pour the sealer directly onto the surface using one tablespoon per square foot. Spread the sealer evenly across the surface. Continue brushing or sponging the surface for a few minutes to make sure the sealer penetrates the surface.
4. The surface will absorb as much of the sealer as it can, after five minutes wipe off any sealer that does not penetrate the surface using absorbent cotton towels. Wipe the surface in circular motions, pressing firmly, till there are no streaks.
5. For extra protection in heavy use areas, 2 or more coats can be applied. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes drying time between coats.
6. The surface will be ready for surface traffic in 12 hours after final coat.
7. Keep dry for 12 hours. Achieves full cure in 48 hours.
8. Clean applicator tools with mineral spirits after each use.
2. Buddy Rhodes Natural Look Sealer and Satin Sealer
What: Natural Look is water‐based penetrating sealer. Satin is a water‐based food grade acrylic sealer used as a topical sealer.
Where to buy: www.buddyrhodes.com or call 1‐877‐706‐5303 to find a distributor near you.
How to Apply:
Manufacturers’ Guidelines: http://www.buddyrhodes.com/prod_sealers.html
Step I: Apply Buddy Rhodes Natural Look Penetrating Sealer
1. Surface must be completely clean and dry to the touch before use.
2. The surface temperature must be between 50 and 90 degrees F with good ventilation.
3. Cover surrounding areas that are not intended to be sealed.
4. Apply one even coat of Buddy Rhodes “Natural look” penetrating sealer with a sponge, spray bottle or soft paint roller brush. Wipe down with a clean cloth after 5 minutes. When the surface is not tacky to the touch, usually within 3‐10 minutes, apply second coat.
Step II: Apply Buddy Rhodes Satin Topical Sealer
1. Apply Buddy Rhodes “Satin Sealer” after the natural look sealer is dry to the touch but within one hour. The satin sealer will not be as effective if it is applied after the Natural Look sealer dries completely.
2. Using a clean four inch brush or a cotton rag apply a thin, even coat of Buddy Rhodes “satin sealer” to the IceStone surface. You may pour the sealer onto the surface and spread it evenly using the brush or rag.
3. Use approximately a teaspoon of sealer per square foot of counter. Work quickly and steadily with a soft cotton rag. Continue to rub with the rag while the sealer dries for 3 minutes until the sealer is almost invisible on the surface. Hand buff any remaining brush strokes with a rag.
4. Wait 24 ‐ 48 hours prior to using the surface.
3. LS Guard
For use on: Flooring. This product contains a non‐food grade acrylic; it should not be used on countertops.
Where to buy: www.prosoco.com or call 1‐800‐255‐4255.
How to apply:
Manufacturers’ Guidelines: http://www.prosoco.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID={312A262C‐A9F1‐4E19‐9EDB‐48E4BD9D4EE9}
1. Surface must be clean, dry and free of existing sealers or coatings.
2. Make sure to have cross ventilation and fresh air entry during application and drying.
3. The sealer should be applied in a room that is between 40 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. The sealer can be applied using a micro‐fiber pad (available at hardware stores or Grainger) or a brush. If you choose to use a micro‐fiber pad you will need to put on 2 coats, because the micro‐fiber pad applies thinner coats than a brush. If you use a brush you only need 1 coat. You can use a natural, synthetic or foam 4 or 6 inch brush. Make sure your brush is dry and clean. The goal is to get a 4‐5 millimeter coat.
5. Pour one tablespoon of sealer per square foot directly on to the surface. Once you apply the sealer with a brush do not go over that area again. The sealer dries very fast; the more it is moved around with a brush the more likely it is to show brush strokes. Brush the sealer on evenly and smoothly so that it covers the surface consistently.
6. The sealer will level off, if left alone and not applied too thick. WALK AWAY AND LET IT DRY.
7. Clean brush or pad with soap and water.
8. Store the product at a temperature between 45 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep from freezing.